Bulgarian Independence day: Part 2 The Church

Part 2

After lunch, which included a shot of Rakia obviously. We high tailed it back to the center of town where Kmiet awaited us. On our way there, Dan made a very true comment about Bulgarian and Polish drinking culture. "There are only two occasions on which you can drink," Dan remarked "When it's your birthday and when it's not." Some people obviously take that statement too much to heart, but wine and Rakia flow like water in Tsarevets, especially during dinners and proper occasions. We headed into Kmiet's office which was up a flight of stairs in the central building.


Once in his office we did what any self-respecting adults did. We rang the old fashioned bell that was stood on his shelf and looked at maps of what were not the village, and one that was the village. Finally on the way out, the mayor points to the carpets on the floor and the waiting couch outside his office, saying he donated them out of his own pocket. Kmiet in fact receives little in the amount of a budget and so more often than not has to either donate his own or look for funders. Across from the central building and just opposite the monument is the 130 year old church and behind that an 800 year old monastery. You can only access the buildings with the keys, which are stored at Kmiet's office, so we essentially got the guided tour.

The church, which is over a century old, is built from foundation to roof out of stone bricks and slabs. These are not just small little pieces of stone; this is not a red brick house idea. These stones can be half a meter thick and twice as long. Two men if not more would be required to move these buggers. All the stone is white or tanned beige by years in the sun and everything but the roof is made from it. Columns that you can't even wrap your arms around have been carved out of a single piece of large stone and then mounted here. The church in itself is not massive nor is it architecturally stunning, apart from the domed roof and the columns, it is only four walls that go up about 2 stories. Yet when you think about the work that was required to cut the stone perfectly straight or curved or into a single column, you have to take a step back and say wow. Especially over a century ago. This church was built to stand and stand it will compared to the crumbling houses surrounding it.

Inside we walk in on what seems to be the remains of a ritual. Several chairs were placed in a square in the center of the room, under the domed roof and each of these chairs were toppled over in the exact same way. Was this an ancient Bulgarian ritual performed to protect the village from vampires and those who fantasize about them? Perhaps the summoning of a Bulgarian demon gone terribly wrong. Or did the wind just knock the chairs over even though there was no draught. If the door was locked and there is only one key, who got inside and how? This could obviously not have been just sloppy house cleaning…. Cue X-files Theme.

Back to seriousness. The insides of the church were covered in murals and the ceiling was painted with little yellow stars all over. When you first enter the church, when not distracted by toppled over chairs, you see directly in front of you, a large wooden wall that reaches almost to the ceiling. On this wooden wall are painted Jesus and various other saints that I will never be able to name and won't begin to try. That doesn't stop me from appreciating the art and skill that went into building and painting this church. I have always been a sucker to appreciate the art that comes with religious sites, even if I am not a fan of their context.

Behind the wooden wall would be where the priest would sit and count his donations… sorry, I meant be holy and boil the holy water for holy tea. In my defense there was a donations box behind the wooden wall as well as rusted and forgotten coins. The church itself is seldom used. Once in a while –and it is becoming more frequent unfortunately- you will hear the bell toll for a full day, signifying a death in the village. Those who die are taken to the grave yard, which is not adjacent to the church. What is in the church, as you leave, elevated above you are the pictures of all those who have recently died in the village. Included on there was Kmiet's wife. The constant reminder must be a pain for the poor man.

After exiting the church, we walk around it to the back of this property to what would look like, to the untrained eye, an old shack. Walking closer to this apparent shack, you discover that the roof is not made out of some dark rotting wood, but instead is made from dark flat two inch thick stones. It is a very uncommon site in Bulgaria, let alone in the village, and Kmiet has commented saying that the last people who knew how to create a roof like this have already died. This stone plated building is only one room large and is barely taller than three meters. This is an 800 year old and ancient monastery that is officially protected by the Bulgarian government. Kmiet has hinted at ideas of trying to turn it into a UNESCO site, but who knows what the future will hold.

The inside of the monastery is quite dark, there are several light bulbs that can be turned on to illuminate it but there is only one square sized window opposite the entrance and a few slits in the wall on the side of the building. Antique murals decorate the walls inside the monastery, all of which have become faded with time. Most depict saints, Jesus, his disciples, the mother Mary and several angles. The usual in Christian churches. A reminder though, that Bulgaria is predominately Russian orthodox and has been for centuries even during Ottoman rule. Yet it is the fact that the building and its art inside have survived the fall of the Bulgarian empires, Ottoman rule, two World Wars and Balkan wars, the rise and fall of communism and now modern day Bulgaria. This hidden gem will probably survive longer than the village itself.

Buildings are strong reminders of the past but knowledge is the most persistent legacy we as a people leave behind. Family, stories, local legends, those we helped and those we rivaled everything we bought and even ourselves will turn to dust and be forgotten. It is those that bestow upon the world some form of new logic, new thinking, and new piece of work that will stand the tests of time. What will be said for the future, when people perhaps look and travel to the stars and leave behind an abandoned uninhabitable planet? 

The buildings will remain and turn to ash, but knowledge will always prevail so long as there are people to wield it. And so, even though I am witnessing the death of a generation, so long as their knowledge and experiences are transferred from one generation to the next, all is not lost, but instead everything is gained and we can build on top of a solid foundation. Or as Newton said, stand on the shoulders of giants. Perhaps that is my main reason for writing what I write, in the hope that not all this knowledge and experience from the dying generation and my own, are not lost in the vacuum that is time…..



PS: What do you think is larger, the amount of time that has elapsed in the universe or the amount of time left in the universe?

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